Chilenidad

by Matt Kelemen

On the day after the Copa América final, I was driving. Returning a car to a friend and navigating the streets of a still-unfamiliar city. All was quiet, as most Santiagiños recovered at home from a night of revelry and emotional release. On the radio, two sports jocks discussed the victory. Not the armchair quarterbacking you often hear on AM radio in the States, with callers offering fervent opinions about the coach’s decision to put in the lefty to face a hot hitter or whether the point guard should have hit the open three rather than making that extra pass. Rather, they were discussing the perceived significance of La Roja’s first win of a major tournament… and boy was it ever significant. Chileans needed this, they said, as a salve to so many wounds inflicted on the people of this long strip of land at the bottom of the world. If it’s not an earthquake, it’s a volcano erupting. If it’s not an eruption, it’s political corruption and broken promises to reform the schools (their words, not mine). But now, all that was washed away in a moment of national pride. Eleven men in red shirts had outlasted eleven men in sky blue and white shirts. Alexis Sanchez planted the winning penalty past a helpless Argentinean keeper, wheeled off toward the corner flag, and stripped off his shirt to start a long and cathartic celebration of a whole country.

As a loyal fan of a few sports teams, I get it. I remember feeling utter joy when the Orioles won the World Series when I was thirteen years old, or when the US national team beat Ghana in the last World Cup. It’s what real Warriors fans must have felt when their team broke a 40-year streak without a championship. Or Red Sox fans celebrating a World Series victory after so much heartbreak. Curses broken. Ignominious records wiped out. The title of “longest-time-without-a-win” handed off to some other unfortunate group of fans.

But this had a different quality to it (or perhaps a just a different magnitude). A perceived sense of possibility, a wondering about “now that we’ve done this, what else can we do? Have we turned some kind of corner? Can we bottle this euphoria and optimism and use it to attack our social and economic malaise?” Absurd, right? After all, it’s just a game. And you can look at a number of ways in which the tournament was stacked in Chile’s favor: Brazil’s best player sent off in dubious circumstances. Chile’s talisman given leniency by a judge after drunkenly wrecking his sports car in the middle of the tournament! No small number of home-cooked refereeing decisions.

Not to mention that all of those other problems persist. The economy is stuttering. Both the Bachelet government and opposition political parties have been hit with corruption scandals that have weakened their ability to lead. And, most interesting to me, an ambitious education reform agenda is facing serious and organized opposition. It is beyond absurd to think that success on the soccer pitch will in any way translate into progress on these fronts.

Yet, it’s intriguing to think about how such an event can affect collective psychology. From what I’ve learned so far, there is a deep-seated cautiousness, even pessimism, among Chileans. It is central to their identity, known as “Chilenidad.” So, here they were, on sports radio, in newspaper features, in casual conversation, talking about the match lifting sprits and creating new possibilities. One Sunday article pictured a young boy wearing the national team jersey and asked in bold letters, “What will it be like to have a generation that knows about winning?”

We are now a month into our time in Chile, and a month away from that special night when Chile won the Copa América. As we go forward, I’ll be looking for other hints of optimism about the future. But I won’t be holding my breath for any fundamental changes to Chilenidad… at least not until the next major fútbol tournament.

Dylan’s thoughts on Chilenidad: I saw my first sub-12 game between Católica and Magallanes. The field was tucked away off a dirt road with no name. Parents and teammates were cheering on their team from the sidelines in the freezing cold. The kids and the parents constantly yell at the ref, hoping to get their way on EVERY call. The game was different from my soccer experiences in the US. It was more physical, goals were celebrated excessively, and the whole game was faster.

Jeannette’s thoughts on Chilenidad: This past week confirmed for me that bureaucracy is a pillar of Chilenidad. When we went to a notary last week to get our lease agreement signed and stamped, the office was PACKED with people lined up to get various documents notarized: car sales, apartment rentals, house purchases, employment offers, business contracts . . . the list goes on. Curiously though, despite our wait, all our official documents, our fees, and the help of our property manager, we never actually SAW the notary – he or she signed and stamped our documents and we merrily went on our way.

Adela’s thoughts on Chilenidad: Chileans are kind. Chileans are funny. They welcome you into their homes and say, “Mi casa es tu casa.” I visited a couple of schools. In one interview, where it was just me and no one else from my family, I was talking to the interviewer and we laughed together, we smiled together, we asked questions about each other, and I didn’t have to hold anything back from her. I knew that I could trust her. You don’t get very many of those sensations when you first meet somebody, but for me, I felt so many things like that in just this past month. I hope that Chile and Chileans never change.

Experiencias Inolvidables

by Jeannette LaFors

We’ve been in Santiago for just over three weeks, and lots of things have helped me to get oriented in our new environment. But thus far two anchoring experiences have shed light on profound influences on the Chilean psyche for me.

The Andes: The Andes mountain range – La Cordillera – is a stunning topographical feature of the Chilean landscape, and no one in Chile lives very far from from it. There are over 35 peaks above 6000 meters (~19,700 feet) in Chile, and there have been more than ten eruptions in the past 20 years among the 123 active volcanoes. You can’t escape the fact that Chile holds a significant share of real estate on the Ring of Fire.

The four of us ventured 70km out of the city on our second weekend in Santiago to enjoy the fresh air of the mountains. We headed southeast toward San Jose de Maipo and the valley where the River Maipo flows through, and drove up a super curvy road to Lagunillas, a modest ski center with a rustic feel.

Adela and I returned to the Cajón de Maipo area with a guide a week later to further explore the mountains for a two-day trekking/snow-shoeing trip. We stayed one night at the welcoming Refugio Lo Valdez, built in 1932 by the Club Alemán Andino. On our first day of hiking we approached Cerro San Jose – a volcano 5856 meters above sea level and dormant since 1960. The sky was a brilliant and blazing blue, and our only company was a little bird who ecstatically joined us for lunch.

On our second day we trekked in the Chilean national park known as Monumento Natural El Morado where we enjoyed more spectacular views featuring El Morado (4647 meters) and the San Francisco glacier. Our fabulous guide, Miguel Infante Garcia, pointed out the amazing geographic features, helped us learn to read snow patterns, shared his maté with us, and even accompanied Adela on his small electric piano while she sang Adele’s “Someone Like You.”

So many themes emerged from this experience. One, it underscored how much many Chileans take pride in their county’s natural beauty and strive to preserve it. At the same time, they are working at odds with others who are not reliable stewards of the land. I couldn’t help feeling so infinitesimally small when I looked out among the majestic peaks; but I also considered what an enormous impact we humans have had on the land as I observed truckload after truckload leave the area with mined resources.

La Memoria: This week we went as a family to the Museo de La Memoria y Los Derechos Humanos, the national museum dedicated to documenting the systematic human rights violations in Chile between 1973 and 1990 and to preventing future violations. When Matt and I visited Santiago 15 years ago, we visited Villa Grimandi, a property taken over by Pinochet’s secret police to become a detention center where nearly 5,000 political prisoners (including Chile’s current president Michelle Bachelet) were tortured and over 200 were killed. It is now a peace park and memorial.

The museum brings to light a terrifying time in Chile’s history. And as much as it is about the darkness of those times, it is also about the people who stood up to the injustices and eventually returned Chile to democratic rule. To Matt’s and my surprise, however, the museum was virtually silent on the U.S. role in supporting the coup. Despite that critique, it was, as expected, an unforgettable experience – una experiencia inolvidable – and a critical reminder that most Chileans we meet have been directly impacted by these historical events in one way or another.

The juxtaposition of these two experiences causes me reflect that though our time on this earth is but a blip; it is a blip where we humans wield both massive destructive and (re)constructive power. It is clear that we must instill in present and future generations a compelling and enduring value of protecting the dignity and rights of our fellow human beings while we also safeguard the earth from damaging and unsustainable practices. And while I feel I have gained some insights into the Chilean national experience by meditating on lessons learned from both the Andes and La Memoria, I know that I have much to learn.

Matt’s thoughts on understanding Chile: I think a lot about dualities here. Tradition and modernity. Pride and modesty. Haves and have-nots. Choking smog and stunning natural beauty. A president who was a prisoner.

Adela’s thoughts on understanding Chile: One thing I noticed about Chile is how many abused and stray dogs there are. I always feel sorry for them and wonder if they will ever find a home. I am glad I see so many people that have donated doggie vests and doggie sweaters. I just hope one day they will find a home.

Dylan’s thoughts on understanding Chile: Chileans are very passionate people. And after I went to a soccer game, it really sank in. The fans cheered on their team even when they were losing. It was like the fans’ chanting picked the players up and gave them energy.

 

Neighborhoods

by Adela Kelemen

Santiago has many neighborhoods. It has neighborhoods like Providencia, Bellavista, Recoleta, Ñuñoa, and many more.

My neighborhood is Providencia. I live in a small, two-bedroom apartment, three bathrooms, small kitchen and living room and a deck. In our neighborhood, we have a metro station, we have the Centro Costanera (which includes Gran Torre Santiago, the tallest building in Santiago), and stores selling anything from food to lapis lazuli jewelry. Another cool thing about Providencia is that they close some of the roads to cars on Sundays and people bike, roller skate, run, walk and skateboard all day long (from 9 to 2) – just like Sunday Streets in San Francisco.

Bellavista has my favorite place in Santiago yet. Bellavista is the neighborhood with the zoo. The zoo has been my favorite place in Santiago because I adore animals. The zoo is on a hill, which means, for some of the animals, you can look down into their enclosures. Most of all, the zoo has my favorite animal, the red panda. I also like Bellavista because it has lots of stores selling lapis lazuli jewelry and other gemstones. Lapis lazuli is a beautiful blue stone that lots of people put in jewelry. For example, if you have ever heard of lapis blue, that’s about the color of it. Lapis is mined in the Andes mountains in northern Chile.

Recoleta is the neighborhood with one of the biggest farmers markets in all of Chile. One thing you can’t help noticing about La Vega is its noise. Venders yelling out foods, friends talking, carts and boxes being pushed along the floor, and most of all, people walking, taking, laughing and yelling. La Vega is packed with people buying, selling and trading food, treats, toys and clothing. To be truthful, you can find almost anything there! Another thing I noticed about Vega was how it is so rich in culture. They have fruits you can only find in South America, Chilean flags all over the place and in the vendors’ little area, knick knacks of all sorts, books, food and drinks. I just can’t help wondering, “Is this how I would want to live my life, working on a farm and bringing my food and drinks and treats to La Vega? Do I think the vendors enjoy it?”

Ñuñoa is the neighborhood next to Providencia. It is the neighborhood where we are looking at a school to attend. It has a delicious açaí store. If you don’t know what açaí is, it’s like ice cream but made from fruit and covered with toppings like bananas, strawberries, honey, granola and so on (it’s actually from Brazil, but we found it here). One of the funny things about Ñuñoa is we came across a street called Calle Jorge Washington. We cracked up when we first saw the street name. I’m looking forward to exploring Ñuñoa and the rest of the neighborhoods of Santiago.

Dylan’s thoughts on the neighborhoods: Visiting the neighborhoods has been so fun and exciting because we get to learn about different parts of a great city and new cultures that we’ve never heard about ever before. My favorite neighborhood is Las Condes because it has a nice parks and it is very modern.

Matt’s thoughts on the neighborhoods: We’re on the eighth floor of our temporary place, which is the highest I’ve ever lived. Have to say, little things take getting used to, like having a doorman/doorwoman and taking an elevator to get home. It’s also been a trip to take the kids to visit apartments where we might live. You learn a lot about each other’s tastes when you do that job together.

Jeannette’s thoughts on the neighborhoods: Today we took advantage of the CicloRecreoVía that Adela mentioned above to get from our current neighborhood in Providencia all the way to La Plaza de Armas which is the main square of Santiago. From there I turned back and challenged myself to climb up Cerro San Cristóbal — also known as Parque Metropolitano and “the city’s green lung”. It’s the second highest peak in the city at 880 meters. Normally you can see sweeping views of the city, but the drizzle and rain limited my visibility. I didn’t mind though —  it was great being among the city dwellers out to get some exercise without the choking company of cars and buses.